Archive for January, 2010

Culinary rollercoasters

I know pretty much how I should be eating.  I know what the industrial food complex does. I know how to read food labels. I know all that because I spent 14 years living with a vegan/health/natural/organic food zealot.  When I left her (for non-dietary reasons) I quickly backlashed against all that I’d learned in those 14 years (well, being vegetarian stuck for a while).

Then I went to work at Google, and I got to know the chefs there. They introduced me to a whole new level of gourmet food and cooking.  That got me thinking seriously about food.

Then I got hit with Type-1 diabetes (yeah.. wierd.. late onset Type-1).  That got me thinking even more seriously about food. For a while, but I slowly got lazy about it.

Recently I got the bug again and started diving into gourmet cooking with a vengeance.  I’ve been seriously looking at upscaling my ingredient choices: organic, local, seasonal, grass-fed, etc, etc.

So I was doing pretty well, I thought.

At dinner on Saturday a friend encouraged me to read “The Omnivore’s Dilemma” which had also been suggested several times before by other people. Ok. The audiobook was on iTunes and I have a lengthy commute, so I figured why not.

I’m on chapter 11 now… and damn.  I had no idea just how fucked up and plain bad the industrial food complex is… even if what’s in the book is an exaggeration. I’m on the verge of getting militant about my food choices.  Wholefoods is looking overly industrial (I do love their grassfed beef though… but need to get more background on that).  I just signed up for a local organic fresh produce delivery service.
Throw that in with my plan to do a monthly gourmet dinner party for small groups of close friends… and there’s going to be some fine food happening around here.

So my main goal is to eat less… but eat better… way, way better.  You should too.

Saturday brunch at Calafia Cafe

I had a run to Sur la Table and Whole Food yesterday morning. Since Calafia is just around the corner from Sur la Table, I decided to start the outing with a simple brunch.

Compared to when I was there for lunch, it was busy! The place had a really nice buzz. Not frantic, just busy & humming along smoothly. As before I took a seat at the kitchen-facing bar. One of the best things about sitting there is that you can see various dishes being made, and see what looks intriguing for next time. Another perk is the chance to chat a bit with Chef Ayers.

This time I had OJ, coffee, and a dish called “Blue Max”. The OJ was really good, and the coffee was made to order in their Clover. Yum.

The Blue Max rocked. From the menu:

Hashbrowns topped with sautéed mushrooms and spinach with two poached eggs, melted swiss cheese and lemon hollandaise.

Here it is:

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This was exactly what I was after for brunch. Just enough to keep you going for the afternoon, but not enough to slow you down. The hashbrowns had just a touch of crispness and provided a solid foundation to the dish. Fresh, slightly wilted spinach on top of that. Two wonderfully poached eggs topped with melted swiss and hollandaise. Simply brilliant.

I’ve never been a fan of poached eggs, but I figured I’d see what Calafia could do. I was not disappointed. Now I need to learn to poach eggs. OMNOMNOM

My experience at Calafia has been consistant: good service, friendly staff, great food.  I encourage you to drop in if you find yourself in Palo Alto and hungry. I know I might just make it a weekend brunch habit.

Vieiras al horno (or baked scallops)

This recipe is an old recipe from my godmother. Usually it is served in our house during Christmas time making it a very special event.

Although it tastes like heaven, it is very simple in its preparation.

You will need the following ingredients (for 2 people):

  • 8 scallops (if you can get them in their shell the better)
  • 1 onion
  • 1 garlic clove
  • 2 teaspoons of paprika
  • 2 spoons of breadcrumbs (from a baguette)
  • olive oil and salt

Preparation

  1. Chop the onions and the garlic into very thin pieces.
  2. Fry the chopped onions and garlic for about 8 minutes.
  3. Remove from the fire.
  4. Add the paprika to the mix. This will be very oily, don’t remove the oil.
  5. Wash the scallops and remove them from their shell, making sure you remove the darker parts of the scallop.
  6. Put each scallop on a shell.
  7. Cover the scallops with the onion/garlic/paprika mix.
  8. Cover the scallop/onion mix with the breadcrumbs.
  9. Put into the oven and wait.
  10. Once the breadcrumbs have turned golden you can take it out.

Serve putting the shells on a plate and enjoy!

Here’s a post I moved over from my personal blog and extended a bit. It’s a cheap move, sure, but I’m tired and have a busy weekend planned… including drafting some more posts for here.


I think brunch might be my favorite meal. It can be as simple as bread and cheese, or as elaborate as eggs benedict or crêpes suzette.

In the picture below: buttered toasted artisanal asiago batard, avocado, scrambled eggs with UnieKaas Reserve gouda and fresh-picked basil, and a doppio espresso.

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Note: I really, really like the cheese I used here. It’s fairly hard, sharp, and salty with a great flavor. It went marvelously with the eggs, especially cubed as shown here, rather than shredded. I found it at WholeFoods, and grab a chunk each time I’m there.

New cookbooks

I do love cookbooks.

I stopped at Borders after lunch today to pick up a copy of Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle, and Simone Beck. Which I did. I’m very happy to finally have a copy of this classic.

I can’t say I’ve been a big fan of French cooking in general… but that was before being exposed to Chef Balek at Google and before taking cooking seriously. I’m really looking forward to exploring this book. And it seems that several of my friends are also looking forward to my exploration of it.

This is the classic book in America on the topic of French cooking. Also, if you’re a foodie and haven’t seen Julie & Julia, see it! It’s endearing, cute, and inspiring. It’s worth it just to see Julia Child (well, Meryl Streep) juggling hot cannelloni and commenting “these things are as hot as a stiff cock”.  The Lobster Thermidor sequence is a comedic high point. More on the movie in another post.

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Alas: bookstores, cookbooks, and I are a dangerous combination.  Before I left, I’d also picked up a couple others that @daksis recommended.

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The Babbo Cookbook by Mario Batali (from Babbo, his restaurant in NYC).

This book is insane. Production values are outstanding with gloss paper throughout. It appears that there is a vivid photo of every dish. This will be a pleasure to cook from. It’ll be a pleasure to read through: it’s pure, hardcore food porn. I have the feeling that I’ll be making Babbo a must-go-to stop the next time I’m in NYC.

The Silver Spoon, which is the English translation of Italy’s bestselling culinary “bible,” Il Cucchiaio d’argento.

This book looks absolutely, ridiculously incredible. I love how it’s structured around ingredients. It will make it easy to work with what’s locally in season. That’s one thing I want to do with my cooking… strive to be as seasonal and local as possible. I learned that from Chef Lucke, and was recently reminded of it by a friend.

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Between The Babbo Cookbook and The Silver Spoon, I think we can look forward to some most excellent Italian themed blog posts and dinner parties.

Dinner parties

After my friend Phil came over to help consume last weekend’s Boeuf Bourguignon, I realized just how much more fun cooking is when you share it with friends.  It’s been a couple years that I’ve been cooking for just myself.

I’ve decided that to get the most enjoyment out of my kitchen adventures, and to keep pushing myself, I will host a monthly dinner party. It will be on the Saturday most closely following the 15th.  I’ll be posting menu ideas, etc. here in advance.  It will, of course, be by invitation only.  I expect there will be some regulars as well as special guests.

I’m starting off this month with a classic French menu, including Boeuf Bourguignon, Potato Gratin, and Creme Brulee.  I’m still nailing down the other bits & pieces.

Thanksgiving dinner

I haven’t cooked much in the last couple years. First it was “I can eat as well/better at Google for free, so why bother?” Then it was “I get home too late to bother doing much.” Sad thing is, I love to cook. I sometimes wonder if I made the wrong career choice. I started cooking when I was in my late teens and haven’t stopped since.

So, when my good friend & co-worker @stesla said his wife (@etesla) was coming to visit for Thanksgiving and they were wondering what to do for Thanksgiving dinner, I invited them down. I was excited by the challenge as well as a bit intimidated… I’d never done a full Thanksgiving dinner by myself before!

But armed with my experience in the kitchen as inspiration from Thanksgiving & Christmas dinners past, I knew I could do it. Apparently I was right, as dinner was much enjoyed.

Here’s the spread (clockwise form the top we have stuffing, ww dinner rolls, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, carrots, brussels sprouts, and gravy, with the turkey in the center):

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I twitpiced that and got questions, so here’s the specifics:

The Cheats

I bought the rolls and cranberry sauce at Safeway, and used a turkey gravy base from William Sonoma prepared according to the directions (highly recommended, btw).

Stuffing

Inspired by my mother’s and Nancy’s great aunt Mary’s stuffings.

INGREDIENTS:

Adjust based on the amount you want to end up with. After doing a trial run a couple weeks ago, I added the apricots & pecans to the recipe. The apricots give a nice sweet counterpoint to the hot sausage, and the pecans give a bit of texture.

  • potatoes, peeled, cubed
  • hot Italian sausage meat
  • butter
  • mushrooms
  • celery
  • onions
  • garlic
  • assorted Italian-style herbs
  • salt & pepper
  • sour dough bread, cubed and dried
  • dried apricots, coarsely chopped
  • pecans, coarsely chopped

METHOD:

Cook the potatoes until just tender, drain, reserving the liquid. Cook the sausage, crumbling into small pieces. Drain on paper towels.

Melt a bit of butter in a skillet. Saute mushrooms until lightly browned and any water has been reduced off. Reduce heat and add garlic, onions and celery. Cook until caramelized somewhat. Add the herbs and sausage. Mix and remove from heat. Let cool somewhat. Mix (in a big bowl ideally) with potatoes and bread. Mix gently so as not to mash the potato. Add potato liquid to moisten the mixture as required. Mix in apricots and pecans. Press into baking dish.

Put it into the oven, covered with foil, when there’s about an hour left on the turkey. Remove foil after half an hour or so to let the top crust up.

Rich Mashed Potatoes

These are almost a direct copy of Nancy’s mom’s potatoes.

INGREDIENTS:

  • 1/4 lb butter
  • garlic, chopped
  • potatos, duh… a bunch
  • 8 oz brink or cream cheese
  • chives, finely chopped
  • salt & pepper

METHOD:

Get the butter and cream cheese out of the fridge and let it warm up so it’s soft.

Saute the garlic over low heat in a bit of butter. You just want to soften it and let it mellow a bit.

Peel and roughly chop the potatoes… like, inch or so cubes. Boil them until tender and mashable. Drain. Mash the potatoes well. I used a ricer and it totally rocks. If you like mashed potatoes, get yourself a good ricer. (sidenote, yes. My kitchen is like Unix: it’s full of very focused tools that do one thing extremely well.)

Chop up the remaining butter, mix it into the potatoes. Chop up the cream cheese, mix in. You want to do this while the the potatoes are still really hot. Mix *well*. You don’t want globs of cream cheese. Mix in the garlic and the butter it was cooked in. MIx in the chives.

Pack the potatoes into a baking dish. Put it in the oven along with the stuffing, covered. Like the stuffing, uncover a half hour or so before the end to brown the top.

Pomegranate-Balsamic Glazed Carrots

INGREDIENTS:

  • 1/4 cup pure pomegranate juice
  • 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
  • 2 teaspoons honey
  • 1 ounce (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 lb. carrots, trimmed, peeled, and cut into sticks about 2 inches long and 3/8 inch wide
  • Kosher salt
  • 1/3 cup lower-salt chicken broth
  • 1/8 teaspoon cayenne
  • 2 tablespoons lightly packed thinly sliced fresh mint

METHOD:

Combine the juice, vinegar, and honey in a liquid measuring cup and whisk. Cut 1 Tbs. of the butter into 4 pieces and refrigerate.

In a 12-inch skillet, heat the remaining 1 Tbs. butter with the olive oil over medium-high heat. When the butter has melted, add the carrots and 1-1/2 tsp. salt and toss well to coat. Cook without stirring until the bottom layer of carrots is lightly browned in spots, 4 to 5 minutes. Using tongs, stir and flip the carrots and then leave undisturbed for 1 to 2 minutes to brown. Continue cooking, occasionally stirring and flipping, until most of the carrots are a bit browned in places and are starting to feel tender, an additional 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium if the bottom of the pan begins to brown too much.

Carefully add the chicken broth, cover quickly, and cook until all but about 1 Tbs. of the broth has evaporated, about 2 minutes. Uncover, reduce the heat to medium low, and add the pomegranate mixture (re-whisk, if necessary) and the cayenne. Cook, stirring gently, until the mixture reduces and becomes slightly glazy, about 1 minute. Take the pan off the heat, add the chilled butter, and gently toss with a heatproof spatula until the butter has melted, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and stir in about two-thirds of the mint. Serve in a warm shallow bowl or on a platter, garnished with the remaining mint.

SOURCE: Fine Cooking 101, pp. 53

Brussels Sprouts

Chef Brian Mattingly taught me the joys of sauteed brussels sprouts when we were both working at Google. Brian’s since moved on to revolutionize the food program at Apple.

INGREDIENTS:

  • brussels sprouts, lots
  • butter
  • salt and pepper

METHOD:

Trim and clean the sprouts. Quarter them.

Melt the butter in a pan. Add the sprouts. Saute over low-medium heat until they are browned and softened. Add salt and pepper as desired. Add more butter as required.

Turkey

I bought a 3lb frozen turkey breast, which worked out nicely for 3 people. I simply roasted it, basting occasionally with melted butter mixed with a generous amount of dried Herbs de Provence.

After it was done, I drained off most of the fat and made the gravy in the pan, first deglazing with a bit of red wine.

OMG LEFTOVERS!

Leftover boeuf bourguignon for dinner tonight. Yum. Check it out:

leftovers.jpg

I warmed up the bourguignon, steamed some fresh green beans, boiled some little potatoes, skins on. While they were boiling, I caramelized some crushed garlic cloves (as in smashed with the side of a chefs knife) in a bit of butter and olive oil. Drained the potatoes, and smashed them with a wooden spoon, mixing in the butter/oil/garlic mix. Finally I threw in a teaspoon or so each of fresh thyme and rosemary. YUM!

Well. Nowhere near as good as she no doubt made it, as this was my first attempt. I used the recipe from Mastering the Art of French Cooking. That makes it like hers, right?

Julia Child referred to a well made boeuf bourguignon as one of the most delicious beef dishes concocted by man. I think this might have been the tastiest thing I’ve ever made, and possibly ever eaten.

This is probably the most adventurous single dish I’ve attempted to date. Sure, I’ve made bigger meals, but no single dish this involved and time consuming.

Walk Through

First, I prepped the little, whole onions and sautéed the mushrooms (no pic of that). I did that Friday night to give me a bit of a jump on it. This could have been done while the dish was in the oven, but I had other things to do then.

Braising Onions.jpg

Next: Bacon! No seriously good dish is complete without bacon :) That’s something I learned at Google… and they’re all smart people, right? So it’s gotta be true. In any case, the recipe really does call for some bacon. Blanched (no pic… it was boring) and browned:

Browning Bacon.jpg

“Where’s the beef?” (anyone remember that ad campaign?) Here’s the beef in all it’s organic, grass-fed glory, 3 pounds of it:

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The beef got lovingly dried (so as to brown better), and browned a few pieces at a time, resulting in this bowl of awesomeness:

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Next up was browning onions and carrots:

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Note that each successive round of browning happens in the same pot. The flavors just keep layering & layering.

The bacon and beef go back into the pot:

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And in goes a bottle of red wine and broth to just cover, along with the herbs. Then it goes into the oven and magic happens.

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After 3 hours in the oven it’s reduced down into an incredible gravy, with the beef falling-apart-tender.

The whole time this was bubbling away merrily in the oven my apartment smelled unbelievable incredible. I was doing laundry during this, and each time I stepped back into my apartment I was assailed by this simply divine aroma.

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Next you strain off the gravy, reduce it as necessary, add it back to the meat, along with the whole onions and mushrooms previously prepped. The result looks brilliant!

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And here it is plated for a simple meal.

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I will so be making this again. Since I’ve done it once successfully, I might build a small dinner party around it with a more complete and organized meal. I also have a few tweaks to make, now that I know how it works.

Lunch at Calafia Cafe

I made a point of dropping into Calafia Cafe the other day. I’ve been meaning to eat there since hearing Chef Charlie Ayers talk about it when he visited Google promoting his new cookbook (Food 2.0).

The place has great atmosphere and decor. There’s a nice variety of seating to accommodate groups all the way to someone on their own, with bar seating looking out the window or into the pass & kitchen.

I took a seat at the bar looking into the kitchen. A very cool spot to be if you have interest in the workings of a restaurant. Things ran smoothly, Chef Ayers manning the pass. The kitchen was, as expected, a flurry of activity.

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The staff was very attentive, and service was impressive. I tried the “Daily Tempura” appetizer and the Eggplant & Spinach Paninni.

Tempura

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This was really nice. Broccoli, onions, and sweet potatoes. Everything was cooked perfectly. The batter was crisp with no doughy clumps. On the side was a tasty soya based dipping sauce. The portion size was reasonable for an appetizer, and was presented well.

Eggplant & spinach panini

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This was simply brilliant! Hot off the grill (yes, I watched them make and plate it) in all its warm melty goodness. There was a good balance between the slightly charred eggplant and the sweetness of the roasted red pepper. Add fresh spinach, cheese, and a pesto spread. The result was “just a sandwich” but a very well executed one. With some pickles on the side. Mmm Mmm.

Summary

In the end, $25 for a light lunch for 1 might be a touch expensive as part of a daily routine. But the quality of the food and experience justifies the price tag on occasion.

Great atmosphere, great food, and just enough selection on the menu. Throw in a view into the kitchen and some personal attention from the chef. You bet I’ll be back.